Merry Christmas

For my final Blog of Christmas, I want to acknowledge, thank and introduce the one who gave me a chance and put me to work. Few things merit gratitude than a person who is not only your most inspirational mentor, but a friend as well. Someone who doesn’t criticize for the sake of criticism, but who offers advice as you navigate your way through your new job and new career. I’m thankful that years have not passed me by before I realized just how valuable, and rare, this type of friendship is.

Deborah Racicot is a passionate, meticulous pastry chef whose great sense of humor, firm grasp on reality, exquisite palate and support has made a deep impression on me. Everything I know and am learning about restaurant pastry grows out of my tutelage by Deborah, and I am honored to consider her my most influential mentor. Dedicated to fostering a friendly learning environment, her efforts go far beyond the teaching of culinary skills in the kitchen, as she also strives to help improve her apprentices’ self esteem, independence and self-discipline.


Like myself, Deborah never went to culinary school – “My training is the school of hard Knox.” Always curious, I wanted to know whom she sites as her most influential mentors, and I discovered:

*Her parents and grandmother, from whom she learned about the essence of food.

*Chef Hugh Kho of Simpatico (Seattle) – He was the one that saw something in her that she never knew she had and gave her the first opportunity to work in the kitchen. It was also under Kho that she learned that number one is taste, not beauty.

*Chef Richard Leach, formerly of La Cote Basque (NYC), from whom she learned that all the ideas in her head are possible and pastry can be beautiful.

*Chef Marcus Samuelsson, of Aquavit (NYC), from whom she learned about the true passion of food.

*Chef Terrance Brennan of Picholine (NYC), who helped refine and develop her palate making her understand the elements of taste and texture.

*Chef Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar and Grill (NYC), her current inspiration, who introduced her to seasonality and taught that food, like all things, go in and out of style, so you must stay on top of the game.

***

From working with Deborah this past year and a half, I have learned to embrace the energy and controlled chaos in the kitchen (I now thrive on the rush), to refine my style and keep things clean and simple, and to respect the essence of food. Deborah’s reverence with which she approaches food and her appreciation for the simplest ingredients is evident throughout her work – from the way she handles a juicy, ripe piece of fruit to her plates that reveal a beautiful simplicity. Deborah constantly challenges her mind, as well as those of her staff, to find new methods and ideas that surpass what we have created before. She works with precision and finesse, marrying taste with stunning presentation, to create a dessert that makes the entire dining experience one of pleasure that leaves the diner with an explosion of sensory indulgence.

“I believe that food should be beautiful to eat, but most important, taste good. I was taught very early on that people eat with their eyes, therefore, when one is creating a dish always make it look appealing to the eye, but it better taste good.”

Deb’s modern creativity often spurs inventive pairings and daring desserts, but always refined and elegant, they never stray from the comfort of traditional. Think sweet and savory, fruit with spice, or adding a whole new dimension with alcohol. Contrasts are constantly played with, such as hot and cold, soft and crunchy, as well as sweetness, saltiness, bitterness and sourness, to create sensual delights to the mouth.


Rather than give any recipes or tips with this post, I simply wanted to take the time to introduce you to my Pastry Chef, Deborah Racicot. There will be plenty of time to delve deeper into her recipes and techniques in the coming year, but for now here are a few of her astonishing desserts from the past year.

Caramelized Figs with Rum, Fig Cookie,

Baba au Rum, Mascaropone Sorbet

Mint Mousse, Chocolate Madelines,

Milk Chocolate Sorbet

Coconut/Raspberry Dreamsicle


Coffee Cheesecake, Kahlua Bananas,

Sour Cream Sorbet

Banana Split


Pistachio White Chocoalte Torte,

Cherry Olive Oil Ice Cream

Blueberry Coffeecake, Blueberry Compote,
Sour Cream Sorbet

***

For your unreserved sharing of knowledge, experience, passion and friendship, I thank you Deborah, and can only wish for more.

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gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef

The 11th Blog of Christmas

Forever indebted to my parents, I know that they know that they are my biggest and most supportive fans and mentors. I am grateful for their endearing love, consistent guidance, timely responses and valuable suggestions in bringing me up to this level, as well as for their consistent and invaluable encouragement. Even though I may not be doing what they had planned for me, I appreciate and need their support and love. Mom and Dad, sorry I’m not posting longer, but (as I’m boarding a train in 2 hours to come home)I want to thank you for always believing in me and my dreams and never encouraging me to do otherwise. Mom, as delicious as your “Glass-Hash” is, it definitely sparked my culinary creativity….I love you both and cannot wait to see you!

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gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef

The 10th Blog of Christmas

Over the past year, I have grown a part of the blissful family at M. Young Communications, the inspirational force behind some of the most prestigious names and events in the food, beverage and hospitably industry. They have embraced me, a young girl with an abundance of culinary curiosity, with a seat at their table and shared in their celebration of life. I can’t even count the number of ways that their magnificent spirits, generosity, guidance and passions have enriched my hearty appetite for learning.

To Melanie, Bruce, David, Dawn, Emily, Eve, Johanna, Joy and Julie, thank you. For your acceptance, your willingness to sample my creations, for introducing me to so many illustrious and respectable people and events in the industry, stimulating my palate, teaching me how to taste and appreciate varying libations, and for giving me the opportunity to feed my passion for knowledge.

***

Ever the party planners, it’s only appropriate that I happily salute you with a flute of Champagne and ring in the New Year with the opulent bubbly. Being a lover of Champagne but no expert notwithstanding, I asked Jerri Banks, the wonderful Beverage Director at the new wine and spirits shop Pour whom I met through you, for her advice.

Unfortunately for me, Jerri doesn't recommend Champagne to be paired with dessert, as it isn't sweet enough to match, so no dessert in this post.

In case you’re still planning your New Years Eve festivities, here are some tips for toasting good friends and good times with bubbly from Jerri Banks:


Entertaining with Champagne for News Years Eve

New Years Eve is the one holiday when Champagne reigns supreme (that is Champagne from the Champagne region of France). Quite the opposite of what one might think, many retail wine shops take big positions on stock for the New Year celebration, thus they often have sales. Take advantage by purchasing a bottle or two of Champagne that may otherwise be pricier at another time of year.

*NV (non vintage) Brut is going to be most affordable in the champagne category.

* Vintage dated Tete de Cuvee (the top bottling or finest wine) such as La Grande Dame from Veuve Clicquot is very expensive but offers the most sublime experience.

*Make sure glasses are clean and soap free as the fine bubbles will be compromised by soap film. A flute is best to preserve bubbles but a retro champagne saucer can be quite festive especially for champagne cocktails.

*Champagne is often judged by the quality of the bubbles — also referred to as the mousse — which will be most enjoyable if they are fine and gently tickle the palate.

*Try Rose Champagne for an additional dose of sensuality. The beautiful colors ranging from burnished salmon to pale rose delights the eye while the delicate floral notes add more complexity to the flavor profile.

Other Bubblies:
*Sparkling wine – All Champagne is sparkling wine but not all sparkling wine is champagne. That does not mean sparkling wine is not enjoyable. Sparkling wines are made all over the globe from a host of grape varieties and can offer a pleasant and less expensive alternative to Champagne.

*Prosecco – From the Piedmont region of Italy, this sparkler, which shares the same name as the grape variety is delightful, and a great pairing with antipasti. It is the sparkling wine of choice used to make the legendary Bellini.

*Cava – Largely from the Penedes region in Spain, Cava is produced in the same method as champagne (Méthode Champenoise) and is reasonably priced. This is great as an accompaniment to hors d’oeuvres or just as a sipper. It also makes a great topper for “champagne” cocktails.

Many high quality sparkling wines are produced in the US.
Look for the following quality domestic brands:

Iron Horse Vineyards, Green Valley, CA
Schramsberg-Napa Valley
Gloria Ferrer- Sonoma CA
Gruet- New Mexico
Dr Konstantin Frank- Finger Lakes, NY


Champagne Cocktails
The classic champagne cocktail with a sugar cube, laden with a few drops of Angostura bitters and topped with Champagne, has given way to a host of exotic concoctions that are as fanciful as their ingredients. The Bellini made with Prosecco and white peach puree is one of the most delicious.

Champagne cocktails are great for any occasion, a great brunch drink and a good alternative when trying to stretch the budget.

Almost any fruit nectar can be topped with champagne to create a tasty cocktail.
Here is a favorite for New Years morning brunch:

Sunburst
3 oz Juice from Mandarin Oranges (Tangerines & Clementines)
½ oz Orange Liqueur
Dash of Orange Bitters or Orange flower water
2 oz Champagne

Combine juice, Orange Liqueur, and bitters in champagne flute or coupe. Top with champagne.

***

Be sure to visit just recently opened Pour -- a wine and spirits boutique uniquely designed around food pairings with wine and spirits – to sample more of Beverage Director Jerri Banks tasty creations.

A fun, informative approach to helping customers select an appropriate wine or spirit for their food of choice in an accessible format. Our mission is to start the uninitiated on an easy to understand discovery of wine and food pairing with an emphasis on the joy of eating and drinking without intimidation or snobbery.

Amsterdam & 75th (321 Amsterdam Avenue) New York City
212-501-Pour (7687)
Online sales are available. For more information, go to: www.pourwines.com

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gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef

The 9th Blog of Christmas

Desserts and Stickies

When I first met Maureen Petrosky (I did PR for her blissful book The Wine Club), I had no idea that she would soon become a huge influence in my life and career. Being in a professional environment in which I did not see a future for myself made it difficult to find female role models. But, everything changed when I began work on The Wine Club. At the time, Maureen’s book was the only account with which I was truly passionate, and I was consumed. I honestly read the entire book cover to cover in just two days and wholly recommend it to anyone interested in learning more about wine. (As soon as time permits I will start a wine club.)

Sommelier, chef, stylist, speaker and author, Maureen has an insatiable curiosity and passion for educating and inspiring people to learn about food and wine. Encouraged by Maureen’s charismatic attitude, as well as her success in both life and her career, I began to seek her advice and guidance when I first began contemplating a career in pastry. As my first real culinary mentor, she candidly gave me her perspective on being a professional woman in the industry. Although Maureen has probably never considered herself my mentor, I've simply bestowed that title upon her because I admire and look up to her as a role model.

Her passion, knowledge and integrity, as well as shared past experiences, struggles and feats have enabled me to take a step back to see the larger picture and, thus, have given me a better perspective and appreciation for my choices. Maureen’s generosity and support also gave me confidence to trust myself to pursue my passion. I hesitate not a moment in stating how important a role she plays in my personal and professional growth.

And, for that, I thank Maureen for being such a gracious and inspiring mentor.

***

It’s party season, and when I start thinking about holiday entertaining, desserts and wine come to mind, and dessert wines in particular. I love to entertain but am often confused on what to serve, especially in the realm of dessert wines. Few things are more traumatizing to the novice entertainer than selecting the perfect wines for a party. And since Maureen Petrosky is quite the expert on wines, I decided to consult her for some basics and tips on dessert wines.

Can a wine truly be better than sex? The jury’s out, but I must admit, I do feel a little naughty when I’m sipping dessert wines – those intense, sweet elixirs I like to refer to as “stickies.” Sweet wines aren’t just for beginners – they are sophisticated and can be as sublime as the most intense seduction.

A great slew of styles and shades await your discovery:
1. Sauternes
One of the most highly sought-after sips in this arena, Sauternes is a sweet wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. Draped in aromas of honey, dried pineapple, and nuts, Sauternes flavors range from apricot and peach to pineapple and vanilla, as well as roasted nutty notes. This sensuous Sticky can come with a hefty price tag, as vintage does matter since a little weather can make or break the entire year’s crop.

2. Ice Wines (Eiswein)
The extremely sweet, intense and luxurious Ice Wines are mostly made from Riesling grapes, except for those from parts of Canada, where they are made from the Vidal grape. But what differentiates Ice Wines is that the grapes are allowed to dangle on the vine until they shrivel into raisins and stay there until a cold winter’s frost freezes them. With Ice Wine you’re in for a mouthful of thick, juicy sweet apricots, tropical fruit salad, butterscotch, honey and an undeniable sharp acidity that will rock your world.

3. Vin Santo
Full of rich nutty flavor, sipping this delectable libation is said to be like going to heaven. Generally sweet, but some off-dry or dry, Vin Santo are al thick, sticky, high in alcohol, smooth and intensely flavored with notes of toasted almonds and caramel.

4. Ports
While there are four basic categories of Port – Ruby, Tawny, Vintage and White –, when a recipe calls for Port, like Port-poached pears, I grab for a Ruby. With ravishing crimson or ruby hues, Ruby Port tastes like a jumble of ripe berries and vanilla with a dab of tannins.

5. Sherry
Sherry differs from other dessert wines bcause it is not necessarily sweet – it’s actually very dry in its natural state.

Fino – considered by many to be the world’s finest sherry, Fino is pale, light in body and dry in taste.
Oloroso – Ranging in color from deep gold to deep brown, these slightly sweet wines are full-bodied with rich aromas like walnuts and raisins.
Cream Sherry & PX – The sweetest of the Sherries, these are dark, rich, creamy and divine with dessert or all by themselves. It’s chocolate pecan pie in a glass!

Tips:
*Stickies can be a stylish alternative to coffee and tea with dessert, a sweet pleasure in place of dessert, or even as a separate course before or after dessert all on their own.

*When pairing desserts and dessert wines, a general rule of thumb is that the wine should always be sweeter than the dessert.

*Also keep in mind that, as with any wine and food pairing, a sticky with similar flavors and aromas to those of the dessert makes for the best pairings. Serve the wine to complement the dessert.

*Often with a whirl of burnt sugar in the flavor, Sauternes is ethereal with creamy desserts like a luxurious crème brûlée.

*A refreshing Ice Wine or late-harvest Riesling paired with a fruit based dessert, like a tropical fruit tart, makes for a lasting impression and balanced finish.

*Crisp biscotti dipped into a glass of Vin Santo, a butterscotch-colored wine from Tuscany with caramel and nut aromas, makes for an irresistible dessert. It’s supersimple too – remember the combo next time you want something really intriguing to cap off a dinner party but don’t feel like baking all day.

*A Ruby Port with some tannins and spice sumptuously stands up to a dark chocolate mousse, making a perfect match.

*Sweet wines also caress super savory foods and are sensational when paired with rich cheeses. Follow a nibble of stinky blue cheese with a sip of sweet sherry or Port for a truly divine pair.

*In general, dessert wines are served in smaller glasses with a smaller opening, which helps concentrate the rich aromas. Fill those petite glasses only two-thirds full. With these high-alcohol, full-flavored pours, a little dab’ll do ya.

*Follow the basic guidelines of dessert-wine pairing, and your gatherings will always be sweet.

Adapted with permission from Maureen Petrosky’s book, The Wine Club.

***

Armed with Maureen’s tips and a bottle of Port, I’m off to start my holiday baking and entertaining.

Note to self: the wine is for the desserts…no drinking while baking.

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gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef

The 6th, 7th & 8th Blogs of Christmas

Counting down the last few days until Christmas, I’m on a bit of a time crunch and slightly behind on these posts. Perhaps it was a bit too ambitious of me given my full schedule, but, nevertheless they will be completed by Christmas. So, here are #6, 7 & 8 all shortened into one.

***

By now I’m sure it's obvious that I am an avid reader who has, over the years, amassed a huge library of books, cookbooks, and books about cooking. And as previously mentioned, great inspiration can be drawn from outstanding books, many of which are patiently resting on my shelves this moment. Great books should not only be beautifully written and photographed pieces of work, but should also teach home cooks and bakers at a level that is engaging, fun and (as Jennifer would say) “a little bit sassy. Learning should be a pleasure, after all.” And the following books do just that. With such intense stories, recipes, tips and photographs, Sweet Seasons by Richard Leach, The Last Course by Claudia Fleming, and the collection of books by Dorie Greenspan ignite creativity and artistic expression, as well as thoroughly teach technique.

While I have not met either Richard or Claudia, my pastry chef has had the opportunity to work with each of them and has only great remarks about them. I am enamored with their innovative and delicious art, and the praise they’ve received for their work is innumerable. Dorie, on the other hand, is not a pastry chef, but a writer of such eloquent prose it’s hard not to admire her. Her life of travel and work with notable culinary figures is one to be emulated. She also recently debuted the first (fabulous) book solely in her own name.

After several years in possession of these books, I have found that the words, intelligence and recipes of these passionate gourmands have had an even greater impact on me than I have realized and given credit. I had a desire to pay tribute to their beautiful and inspiring work, so I recreated (and slightly modified) a recipe from each of their books. Thank you Richard, Claudia and Dorie, for being the generators of ideas and opening up a whole new world of opportunity for home cooks.

From Sweet Seasons:
Walnut Tartlet with Chilled Spice Cream and Golden Raisins

Although it seems daunting at first glance, this book is surprisingly accessible with an alluring collection of recipes that fulfill every whim of your imagination.

Leave it to Richard Leach to come up with a combination that turns classic into cutting edge. This dessert is a modern take on a pecan pie, with walnuts replacing pecans and finished with a myriad of components that intensify the opulent flavor and dramatic presentation. While the true star here is indubitably the walnut, lush and complex in flavor, I adapted several components with the addition of dark rum, a favorite spirit in my home, to subtly complement the main ingredient.

While I really liked the final result, full of great flavor and varying textures, I think that it needs something to contrast the heavy sweetness of the whole dessert. The flavors in the dessert aren’t really in opposition, but rather repeated throughout. What to change? I’ll have to sleep on that one, but, meanwhile, it is quite delicious in parts or as a whole.

From The Last Course:
Espresso Panna Cotta Parfaits with Coffee Gelee

Adapted from Claudia Fleming’s gorgeous recipe, these pretty cups are not just for show. A marvelous silky treat, panna cotta is delicate, utterly unusual and elegantly simple, yet brings a sweet satisfaction with its mysterious wiggle. Simplicity is sexy when it comes to dessert, and this dessert is proof. My adaptation – Kahlua in the espresso panna cotta layer, as I’m am a fan of liquor-based desserts this month. With the combination of flavors of deep coffee and tart orange, and a luxurious velvetiness, these jiggly parfaits are a satisfying treat for any coffee and cream lover.


From Baking: From My Home to Yours
An adaptation of Dorie's Chocolate Caramel Peanut Tart

With a velvety, melt in your mouth consistency, this tempting tart is a sweet ending that's as elegant as it is delectable. While I added Ruby Port to the ganache, replaced the peanuts with walnuts, and used a chocolate sucre recipe rather than Dorie’s crust, her ganache and caramel were stunning and heavenly. (More to come on this tart for The Gilded Fork’s January Port recipes.)

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gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef

The 5th Blog of Christmas

One of the biggest surprises I’ve received so far in my career was meeting (and maintaining a relationship with) Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg at the James Beard Awards last May. Adventurous, passionate and determined, you’ll fall for the pair the moment you meet them. Some of the sweetest and most genuine people I know, they have welcomed me, as well as so many others, into the culinary world with open arms and (big) smiles.

Several years ago I read their first book Becoming a Chef; it's that book that left the biggest impression on me and cultivated my interest in the culinary world. After devouring the first book, I was smitten, inspired and hungry for more. I next conquered Culinary Artistry, Dining Out and Chef’s Night Out, and still on my list are The New American Chef and, their newest, What to Drink with What You Eat. Full of inspirational stories and a wealth of information, their books are fantastic resources for every aspiring chef eager to expand their culinary knowledge.

With a mission to help make the world a better place to eat, one meal at a time, it’s no wonder that the husband and wife team are such admirable inspirations.

“We hope that our books each contribute to that mission. Andrew has also worked toward that mission as a professional chef and caterer, as has Karen as a consultant to the food and beverage industry. We've also contributed to efforts to feed those in need in Boston and New York City.

Confucius observed that ‘The enjoyment of food is one of the things that contributes to the peace and harmony of a society.’ In a day and age when peace and harmony are in such short supply, can there be many more important missions than helping the world get fed, and to ultimately enjoy that food and the act of sharing it with others?”

There are many writers I admire, but few that have had such profound effect on me as Karen and Andrew. I admire their integrity and passion for educating and enhancing the professional development of their colleagues, and thereby the culinary profession as a whole, as well as for creating a world full of enhanced palates. Though it may come as a surprise to each of them, ever since my first experience with their books, I have wanted to emulate them and have always considered them my mentors. Always generous with their time, concern and passion, I am confident that they are mentors to many without even knowing it. Their guidance and insight have made me that much smarter, that much wiser, and that much more passionate. Thank you, Karen and Andrew, for educating, enlightening and always entertaining.

***

Karen and Andrew recently introduced their newest book, What to Drink with What You Eat, to their repertoire, so in maintaining my sweets and alcohol induced theme for the 12 Blogs of Christmas, I asked Karen and Andrew for their favorite dessert recipe, as well as some tips on pairing desserts with beverages.

Published with permission from Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg:

One of our favorite dessert recipes of all time is the one for Cheesecake from the late African-American chef Patrick Clark (ex-Tavern on the Green) that appeared in our first book BECOMING A CHEF. Patrick had told us that as a child, he spent all of his allowance on cream cheese so that he could work to create the ultimate cheesecake recipe. After spending decades perfecting it before his untimely death at the age of 42, we think Patrick succeeded.

Patrick Clark's First Cheesecake
3 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
1 ½ cup sugar; (12 ounces)
1 pinch salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or the seeds of 1 fresh vanilla bean
3 large eggs
1 cup sour cream or heavy (whipping) cream
graham cracker crumbs and butter for crust

In the bowl of a mixer, place the cream cheese, sugar, salt, and vanilla bean seeds, if using (if using vanilla extract, add after creaming). Cream the mixture at medium speed, until light, then add the vanilla extract (if using), and the eggs, one at a time, mixing for 2 minutes after each addition. Stir in sour cream or heavy cream until well combined. Butter a springform pan (10-inch diameter with 2 1/2-inch sides) and sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs. Pour batter into the pan and bake in a preheated oven at 350 degrees for about 70 minutes, or until the cake tests done in the center. Remove to cake rack, and cool completely. Then remove cake from springform pan and refrigerate. Serve chilled.

(From BECOMING A CHEF by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page.)

We've long enjoyed cheesecake with a sweet wine such as Orange Muscat; Quady Essencia is one of our very favorites. Cheesecake is also wonderful with other sweet wines, such as Late Harvest or other sweet Rieslings and Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise.

But ever since researching our latest book WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT, we've been getting even more experimental with our beverage pairings, which can add so much to the enjoyment of dessert. These days, believe it or not, our favorite pairing with cheesecake is BEER. While we prefer our cheesecake plain, you know how it sometimes tastes nice with some cherries or with a raspberry coulis? Imagine getting those berry flavors from beer -- as you can when you sip a Belgian lambic fruit beer like Kriek (which is cherry-flavored) or Framboise (which is raspberry-flavored)! It's such an atypical pairing that it makes guests smile when you set it before them, and invariably results in converts!

Dessert and Beverage Pairing Tips:
*When experimenting with dessert and wine pairings, the single most important tip to keep in mind is to make sure the wine is sweeter than the dessert. Otherwise, the sweetness of the dessert will blow the wine out.

*Think of what flavors are most compatible with your dessert, e.g. coffee and nuts both go so well with chocolate. Then think of delivering that earthy, nutty flavor via a liquid beverage instead of a solid accent (e.g. chopped nuts) -- e.g. a glass of tawny port or PX sherry.

*Think of what flavors would contrast well with your dessert, e.g. berries with a slice of plain cheesecake, where the berries deliver the acidic flavor that helps cut through the fat of a rich dessert. Then think of delivering that berry flavor via a liquid beverage instead of solid berries -- e.g. cherry (Kriek) lambic beer, instead of fresh cherries. By the same token, the cherry beer would also taste great with a slice of dark chocolate cake. Since raspberries pair so well with white chocolate, you might consider a raspberry (Framboise) lambic beer with a white chocolate dessert.

*When in doubt, the sweet sparkling wine Moscato d'Asti is one of the most dessert-friendly wines there is, so consider keeping a bottle in your refrigerator -- and the red sweet sparkling wine Brachetti d'Aqui is arguably just as versatible, as it pairs even better with chocolate!

*Don't overlook the cutting-edge realm of cocktail and dessert pairings. One of the best matches we've ever tasted was a Chocolate Decadence martini -- made with Chopin vodka, and Godiva white and dark chocolate liqueurs (and even a crushed Oreo cookie rim around the edge of the glass!) -- served with a banana cake. The pairing was exquisite, and elevated both the cocktail and the dessert.

WHAT TO DRINK WITH WHAT YOU EAT was also just named Winner of the 2006 Georges Duboeuf "Best Wine Book of the Year" Award

***

What to Drink with What You Eat is a fantastic book in which Karen and Andrew demystify beverage and food pairings. But, it’s not just a book about wine – beer, liquors and all the things you match to the foods we eat are embraced. Written from the pursuit of pleasure, they love eating and drinking and want to make it accessible to all. The two aspire to see everybody pair drinks to accompany the food they eat every day, 365 days a year. A celebration of life, this book truly enhances the experience where we sit down at the table with food and drink.

And, I have to admit, I recently purchased several copies to give as Christmas presents this year!

Mark and Jennifer also recently caught up with Karen and Andrew for their book signing at Pour – a hot new wine and spirits boutique that just opened on the Upper West Side of Manhattan specializing in helping customers pair food with wines and spirits. So for more tips, be sure to check out their podcast.

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gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef

The 4th Blog of Christmas

Great inspiration can be drawn from a number of things – be it a person, a book, a sound, a bite of something incredible… Another one I’ve never met but consider a mentor in a plethora of ways is Pierre Herme. I admire him not only for his exacting perfection as a pioneer of classic French pastry, but for also knowing how to break the rules. For satisfying our visual senses, as well as our palates. For his minimalist chic style, yet his intrepid use of vivid colors and intense, whimsical flavors. For his unique approach to seasonality and indulgent fantasies with haute couture-like “collections”. For inspiring and challenging so many other pastry professionals world-wide.

I went to paris several years ago. Twice actually. And both times had saved up money specifically to be spent on food (ummm and shoes). While I had planned to go to Pierre Herme’s boutique, I did not know then that a great deal of my time and money would be exhausted on rue Bonaparte. I remember my first bite. It was ethereal. Crisp exterior with a tender yet chewy center, the exquisite chocolate macaron delicately melting on my tongue sent me into shivers. Relishing a single macaron became my daily obsession.

Since those Parisian days, I have yearned to recreate Pierre’s sinfully enchanting macarons at home. Macaroons are notoriously difficult to make, and, much to my chagrin, none of my attempts had been very successful at replicating his dainty almond-based cookies. Now that I know how to handle and use my ingredients properly, I’ve given the macarons another go using Pierre Herme’s recipe.

With smooth, lightly domed tops and ruffled feet, macarons are quite a feat if properly executed. The ones I produced still need a little tweaking, but, nonetheless, were sublime. In my next attempt, I will slightly reduce the amount of TPT to achieve a smoother dome, as the batter was a tad thick. But, overall, they had beautiful little feet and a satisfying texture.


Macaron Making Basics:
*TPT = tant pour tant = equal weights of almond flour and confectioner’s sugar. Make sure you sift this mixture together.

* The first step to successful macarons is the consistency of the meringue. Having the egg whites at room temperature produces the best and most voluminous meringue. I left mine out for about 3-4 hours before beginning the process. When whipping, you want a stiff, glossy merinuge, but be careful not to let it get too stiff or it will become difficult to fold into the almond mixture without deflating the batter.

* Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the almond mixture into the egg whites until completely incorporated. The mixture should be shiny and ‘flow like magma.’ When small peaks slowly dissolve to a flat surface, it is ready for piping.

*Carefully pipe uniform rounds to ensure equal sized cookies.

*Let the piped macarons sit out for 1-2 hours before baking, until the surface is sufficiently dry and a skin forms on the tops.

*Bake 325 for 10 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. They should develop their feet within the first 5 minutes of baking.

In observance of my alcohol-induced theme this month, a silky chocolate sherry ganache sandwiches the luxurious cookies together. Cream sherry was an obvious choice for me, as several months ago I attended a Wines from Spain tasting in which I tasted the sensational combination of sherry and almonds together for the first time, and just knew that the chocolate almond macaron would be the perfect medium in which to replicate that evocative experience.

Sherry Ganache Filling
1/2 cup whipping cream
2 tablespoons corn syrup
5 oz 61% (bittersweet) chocolate, finely chopped1/2 cup (4oz) unsalted butter, diced
3 tablespoons sherry
Pinch salt

Bring the cream and cornsyrup just to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove the pan from the heat and pour over the chopped chocolate; whisk until smooth. Add the butter, whisking until fully incorporated. Then whisk in the sherry and salt until the ganache is glossy and combined. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate covered, for at least 30 minutes, or until the filling is firm enough to hold its shape when spread. Pipe small dallops onto the flat side of ½ of the macarons. Sandwich together with the other halfs.

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The 3rd Blog of Christmas

A Few of Martha’s Favorite Things

(to the tune of A Few of My Favorite Things)

verse 1
Menus and recipes
And artistic decor,
Baking and gardening
And knitting and crafting,
Indulgence and comfort
Perfection held high
These are essentials of domestic bliss.

verse 2
Tasty food gifts like
Biscotti and coffee.
Creative craft gifts like
Snowglobes and candles.
Holiday wreaths and
Liquored up fruitcake.
These are all things featured on Martha’s show.

refrain
Martha the maven
Wildly successful
Her passion for teaching all homey things.
Though not a true chef,
She’s here to improve you
To inspire to bake some more.

verse 3
A creamy eggnog
And gingersnap cookies.
Creaming and baking
The butter and sugar.
Whisking and whisking
Ribboning egg yolks.
These are some goodies
That I made from Martha.

refrain
When the bell dings
When the rum’s in
Then you’re feeling great.
Just simply start baking
These fabulous cookies
And then you can indulge
In eggnog.

***

Over the years, I have developed a group of people important to me who I consider my mentors. It may be someone I’ve never met, someone I’ve read, or someone I’ve watched, but it’s always someone who’s had a significant impact on my thinking. Ms. Martha Stewart – homemaking guru, domestic diva, entertaining expert, brilliant business manager, middle America success story – is someone I consider a mentor. I’ve always had a soft side for Martha. With simple solutions to everyday problems, her craftiness and everyday celebration of life are greatly inspiring and initiated my obsession with entertaining and baking. Growing up, many days would revolve around her show, absorbing tips from her books, stirring together her recipes and toiling over her crafts. Today, I still find myself reaching for her magazines and tuning into her show, because Martha also offers something else I crave: entrepreneurial vision.

So, as tribute to Martha Stewart, I made her eggnog and gingersnap cookies, which, I admit, were delightfully polished off in a matter of minutes.



Certainly a guilty pleasure, no other drink epitomizes Christmas as wholly as rich, creamy eggnog gliding effortlessly over your lips. Perfect on a brisk winter night, the almost immoral scent of winter’s sumptuous spices fills the air as the sinfully enchanting custard simmers on the stove. Although I followed Martha’s recipe mostly as written, I did add a few dash of cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. The recipe also calls for freshly grated nutmeg, and, if used, you will be pleasantly amazed by the results. The alluring spice just tempts and taunts with its exotically sweet fragrance. And, yes, I highly advise the alcohol; otherwise, it’s just empty calories.

Thin and crispy, this classic sugar-dusted gingersnap adds a festive sparkle to your holiday cookie jar. Although Martha’s recipe for this spicy snap calls for sweetening with maple syrup, I did slightly alter the ingredients to achieve a deeper, spicier and more complex taste, using all butter and the traditional sweetener, molasses. Laden with the sensuous spices of winter, gingersnaps are an ideal companion to a mug of luxurious eggnog, especially consumed fireside while an opulent blanket of white envelops the city landscape.



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The 2nd Blog of Christmas

Grandma Mae is a formidable cook. Growing up, I spent many childhood days alongside her whisking and stirring and kneading in the kitchen. I was a little cook and my curious hands were always under Grandma’s watchful eyes. Being doted on by Grandma was grand enough, but with scents of vanilla and sugar mixed in, life was swell.

Some of my fondest memories come from days spent frolicking in her garden, getting lost in never ending rows of plump berries, unearthing giant stalks of rhubarb, and plucking vibrant tomatoes. Famished from all of my arduous work, I’d bask under the apple, cherry and apricot trees, sipping on tart lemonade while sneaking a snack of the fresh fruits begging to be picked. Other memories grew from days spent in her kitchen, as later, we'd turn the bounties I collected into fruit pies, cobblers and cookies.

I know the scent of my grandma’s house like the back of my hand. Warm and spicey, flooded with hints of sweet vanilla. I especially remember anxiously awaiting the holidays so I could return to her kitchen. Holidays at Grandma’s always involved a plethora of pies (these were her favorite to bake). We’d arrive early, around 12, only to find her still toiling away in the kitchen. The bulk of dinner already prepared, but she always left the final touch of the pies for me. She introduced me to the pleasures and magic of baking, so of course, I’d jump at the chance to help. Lemon meringue pie was a staple, as well as my favorite. Well, up until the year I decided that I had had my fill, and the lemon meringue pies vanished from our holiday table. No more sticky white messes, no more meringue to swirl. Now, after several years of not relishing in her famous lemon pie, I have been craving the tart custard nestled under a billowing cloud of meringue.

Grandma still spends much of her time baking. Her cookie jar is always piled high with at least three different cookies. And she often hands down her old cookbooks and handwritten recipes. With such warm memories of food and cooking, it’s no surprise that I am happiest when in the kitchen.

Unfortunately, I will be absent from her Christmas Eve dinner this year, so the memories of her pie continue to remain memories. I have also been longing to make her lemon meringue pie, but seem to have misplaced the recipe. However, as my Grandma also loves a little libation every now and then (especially holiday spirits), I made a lemon meringue pie martini as a tribute instead. And what’s a party without a cocktail (and The Gilded Fork is featuring cocktails this month)?

Thank you, Grandma. She’s why little cooks grow into adult chefs.



Lemon Meringue Pie Martini
Adapted from my liquor cabinet for my Grandma

The bleak gray skies of winter send us seeking warmth and comfort. And, when waning clouds reveal a glimmer of the fragile sun, thoughts of bright citrus flood the air. What this refreshing cocktail lacks in warmth (as in temperature), it makes up for in creaminess and luxuriousness, inherently evoking a comforting rush of excitement for familiar sunny days.

Serves 1

Ingredients
For the cocktail:
2 oz vanilla vodka
1 oz lemon simple syrup
1 oz limoncello
1 oz half and half or light cream
1 Graham cracker, finely ground with 1 teaspoon sugar
Lemon twists for garnish

For the lemon simple syrup:
The zest and peel of 1 lemon
1 cup water
1 cup sugar

Prepartion:
Prepare the lemon simple syrup:
Combine the water and sugar in a small pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, and then add the zest and peel. Cover and remove from heat. Let steep for 30 minutes. Cool until ready for use.

Prepare the cocktail:
Spread the graham cracker “dust” onto a flat plate. Dip the rim of a martini glass in water or lemon juice and then in the graham crackers.

Fill a cocktail shaker ¾ full with ice and then add all the other ingredients. Shake vigourously and strain into the martini glass. Garnish with lemon twists.

Serve and savor immediately.

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The 1st Blog of Christmas

Almost one year ago, Champagne reigned as the Main Ingredient. Worthy for more than just drinking, Champagne is a sophisticated ingredient for cooking. Its effervescence adds a unique depth and flavor to ordinary dishes, as well as a refreshing finesse to desserts. When given the opportunity to utilize Champagne in dessert, not for pairing but rather including it as an ingredient, oddly, marshmallows immediately came to mind. Why? For one, some time last year I had become obsessed with perfecting my marshmallow recipe – one that is so pillowy and delicate in texture it just melts like a soft kiss on your tongue. And two – the idea of sparkling Champagne + marshmallows …one word, swoon. I figured that if fruit juices and purees could be substituted for the water in recipes, why not use Champagne. So I set to work to develop a recipe using the bubbly.

With this First Blog of Christmas, I raise a glass of Champagne to toast Jennifer Iannolo and Mark Trafoya, the sensual gourmands behind The Gilded Fork, for welcoming me into their family with open hearts and open minds. Thank you for accepting me, for giving me the opportunity to write, explore and experience, and for sharing your adventures and excitement. Your passion for understanding, experiencing and celebrating the pleasures of gastronomy via the senses, as well as your appreciation for and reverence with which you approach food is so inspiring and has united passionate cooks and gourmands worldwide. So, inspired by my toast and since we’re so enamored with the lightness of Champagne, I have reworked and recreated my Champagne marshmallows for you.


I hesitate to count the pounds of sugar I’ve consumed while testing recipes. After many reluctantly tossed batches, I have finally achieved one so divine, so gentle, so pristine. Of the versions I’ve attempted, the most enticing is made with whipped egg whites and an Italian meringue, as both provide stability and ensure an irresistibly gentle texture. Sure this new recipe may seem a tad more finicky, but it is well worth the time and effort, as its ethereal lightness clearly surpasses the original.

Subtly flavored with the essence of Champagne, these are a just excuse to revel in the pleasure of the senses. Whimsical and reminiscent of childhood, I know of no other sugar-coated libation capable of making adults as gleeful as a homemade marshmallow.

Although marshmallows, requiring few ingredients, are fairly simple to make, they also introduce several confectionary and pastry skills to the maker. They are a study in the techniques of egg whites, sugar syrup, and Italian meringue, and rewarding and unctuously satisfying in only 15 minutes.

Some science behind the marshmallow:
*Bringing the egg whites to room temperature will achieve maximum volume when beating, allowing them to triple in volume. Separate the eggs when cold and then warm egg whites to room temperature before using. Only whip to firm, glossy peaks, being careful not to over beat.
*An Italian Meringue (sugar syrup slowly poured into beating egg whites) creates a more stable, yet lighter solution. But make sure that your sugar syrup does not exceed 240 degrees F or it will curdle the whites (I know this from experience).
*Beating air into the meringue/gelatin solution produces a strong structure comprised of small air bubbles resulting in an end product that is light and spongy. The gelatin will eventually set and in doing so, will trap the air that has been added to the mixture from beating.
*Corn syrup is a hygroscopic substance (meaning it attracts moisture). While it is necessary to assist in the inversion of sugar (the chemical breaking of the link between the glucose and fructose units which results in a mixture of: sucrose, glucose and fructose) to minimize the chances of crystallization while making the sugar syrup, I found that too much (as in the 1st recipe) creates a denser marshmallow. Reducing the amount corn syrup will yield a lighter textured marshmallow since while still increasing the shelf life.
*The addition of egg whites also almost doubles the end product, so as it appears that the amount of sugar has been cut in half, it actually yields about the same amount as the original recipe.

Tempting? I hope so.


Updated Champagne Marshmallows
Makes approx. 50 1-inch square marshmallows

Ingredients
2 envelopes (.25 ounces each) unflavored gelatin
½ cup chilled Champagne
1 cup sugar
¼ cup corn syrup
1/3 cup Champagne
3 egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract or the seeds of ¼ of a vanilla bean
Powdered sugar

Equipment
Rimmed baking sheet
Standing mixer
Candy thermometer

Preparation
Prepare a rimmed sheet ban or baking sheet with parchment paper, coated with non-stick spray or vegetable oil.Pour the chilled Champagne into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over to soften. Soak for 5 minutes.

[Chef’s Note: We recommend opening the bottle when it’s chilled, and pouring out the ¼ cup needed at room temperature into a separate measuring cup. Place it on the counter to bring it to room temperature and store the rest in the refrigerator. It is never wise to open a bottle of Champagne at room temperature, as the gases become more explosive as the temperature of the liquid increases.]

Place the egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer and start whipping at low speed using the whisk attachment. Combine the sugar, corn syrup and Champagne in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until it reaches 240 degrees F (soft ball stage) on a candy thermometer, about 7 minutes. Meanwhile, increase the speed of the whipping whites to medium-high and continue to whip until firm, glossy peaks form. Soften the gelatin over low heat to liquefy. When the temperature reaches 240 degrees F, slowly drizzle the syrup down the side of the bowl in a slow and steady stream into the egg whites. Add the softened gelatin and mix at medium-high speed until very fluffy, about5-7 minutes. Add the salt and vanilla and incorporate into the mixture. Pour into the prepared pan and smooth with an oiled spatula or your hands. Let sit uncovered at room temperature for 10-12 hours. Once set, the marshmallows become light, ethereal mountains of sweet pleasure.

Remove marshmallows from pan, placing the parchment paper side on a cutting board. Using either an oil-coated knife or cold water for dipping, cut the marshmallow slab into equal 1 inch squares. Toss each into sifted powdered sugar, shaking off excess. As these are made with egg whites, they are more susceptible to spoilage, so they must be eaten within 3-4 days.

[Chef’s Note: Variation: Dip finished marshmallows in other coatings such as coconut, sugar sprinkles, or whatever your imagination fancies. These also make gorgeous gifts for holiday giving!]

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Response to Eggbeater -- "why is being a chef interesting?"

An avid reader of Shuna Lydon’s blog Eggbeater, I’ve been checking for new posts almost daily. And, last night, I sat dumbfounded in awe for an entire 5 minutes after reading her entry. Shuna’s eloquent way with words and manner of speaking the truth just resonated within me.

Yesterday, she presented a remarkable answer to the common question, “why is being a chef interesting?”. While I am not a chef, but rather a cook – a pastry cook to be exact – working towards becoming a chef, what Shuna wrote answers the question I ask myself every day…why do I want this?

Chefs are a hard breed. We make very little money. We have no lives. We get minimal sleep. We have scars, pale skin, dowdy uniforms, dry cracking hands and tired feet. Yet, we return each day to “toil away day after day, night after night, with little compensation and high falutin’ press.”

So why do I do it?
Because I am curious with a hunger for knowledge. With food and cooking, there is so much to learn, and I want to know it all – explore and understand tastes, textures, techniques and ingredients.

Because it is fun. Fun to collaborate ideas. Fun to be creative. Fun to experiment. Fun to taste. Fun to sample new ingredients. Fun to dance in the kitchen. Fun to learn a new language (both in technical pastry and kitchen Spanglish).

Because I’m not ordinary. Working every day the same way in a “normal”, safe job is boring to me. Every day is full of surprises in the kitchen. I was born an individual, and that is how I end to live. If you asked me what I came into this world to do, I will tell you: I came to live out loud. …and pastry is my medium. I have two good hands and I intend to use them to ignite the same level of excitement in others.

Because it is physically and mentally challenging. Rolling 20 pounds of dough makes me feel strong. Picking up a soufflé dish hot out of the oven with my bare fingers makes me feel invincible. Challenging myself to work faster, cleaner and be more efficient, to use knives properly, pipe straighter and make even cake layers, to master an old recipe, create a new recipe or come up with new ideas and combinations, is just inspiring. At the end of the day, knowing you did better today than yesterday is a rewarding feat that feels damn good.

Because I feel lost when I’m not in the kitchen.

Because (as brillantly said by Shuna) "no matter how many hours you stay at work every day, every month & year, no matter who you work for or with –

YOU WILL NEVER LEARN ALL THERE IS TO KNOW ABOUT FOOD*"

Because being a (future) chef is interesting.

Thank you, Shuna, for finding the answer to the question I have been asking myself.

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Happy Blogging

December marks the end of an exciting (and always surreal) year for me. As we get ready to embark on another year filled with ambitious new adventures, I want to reflect back and acknowledge those who have helped fulfill one of my most life-changing and remarkable decisions – to enter full-force into the culinary world. While people close to me have obviously been a huge force in my life, perhaps some of the most notable influences are other professionals whose passions and recipes have inspired me to start baking.

In light of the holiday season and extremely enthused by The Gilded Fork’s entertaining and cocktail features this month, I’ll be indulging in liquor laced sweets. Never one to shy away from a lively spirit, I have a great weakness for liquored desserts. Sweet liqueurs (also known as cordials), wines and spirits are great not only as mixers for swanky cocktails, but also enhance desserts with a stylish sophistication. Presented in the form of my 12 Blogs of Christmas, each post will recognize someone (or more) who has inspired my decisions in one way or another, as well as an accompanying recipe, drinkable dessert or sweet tip. So, amidst all of the holiday festivities, I’ll also do my best to make sure we all indulge in the best sweets and drinkable treats around.

Let’s face it, with crazy work schedules, overwhelming holiday soirees and chaotic holiday shopping, we all need to lift our spirits in order to maintain holiday cheer (and not to mention sanity). So, to kick start our holiday festivities this month, here’s a little amuse. Happy Blogging and raise a toast to a smashing holiday season…

White Chocolate Covered Cherry
½ oz cherry flavored vodka
½ oz white chocolate liquor
½ oz grenadine

Layer ingredients in the order listed by slowly pouring the liquid
over the back of a spoon so that it sits on top of the next ingredient.

(This is a great resource I found for more information on layered shots)


This creation is a just a fun ode to my best friend, for all those times I sucked the cherry cordial centers from your Christmas chocolates, leaving you with all the icky chocolate coatings…and yet, you never chastised me for only wanting the best.

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